How to do SBS 3D still photo conversion

Is there a way in Lightfield Studio to convert a SBS 3D photos (from Aiptek 3D camera) to view on the Lume Pad? If not, is there another tool or method to do this?

Maybe you can convert the SBS image to video. Showing the SBS image during 5 seconds or so.
Another way is to make a 3D video from 3D photos with PhotoStory (at least old versions can do nice animations with 3D photos)

Hey @hdemby,

Lightfield Studio is for video only for now.

You can natively view SBS 3D photos on Lume Pad simply by appending “_2x1” to the end of the filename, no conversion needed. For example: 3Dphoto_2x1.jpg

Nima

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Hi Nima,
I’ve always added “name_full_2x1.jpg” to view 3d SBS pics. What’s the difference between that and “name_2x1”?

Hey @adamlopez,

Because the vast majority of photos and videos are full width, we changed the behavior of Leia Player to automatically assume content is full width unless tagged otherwise.

Thus, “_full_2x1.jpg” and “_2x1.jpg” are exactly the same, and we recommend you simply use the latter.

If your content is half width, however, you must tag it “_half_2x1.jpg”.

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Thanks Nima :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: makes things a lot easier when changing pic names on the RH1 :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

Well @adamlopez, we’ve heard the feedback loud and clear that it’s a hassle to change the file names of traditional 3D content, so there will be some updates in the next couple versions of LeiaPlayer that I know you’ll REALLY like!

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This may be a repeat answer, but for those using Fuji W’s, and other sbs digital images, Stereo Photo Maker (SPM) has “Multi Rename” in the file menu, which will append the “_2x1” or whatever to the file name for all, or those selected in a list.

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Thanks for mentioning that! I wish I’d noticed that option when I went through all my W3 photos and renamed them. (Fortunately, I scripted the renamings iso it wasn’t that bad.)

I just got my new tablet today. I shot sbs still photos with two canon cameras. I use Stereo Photo Maker to create my stereo images. These look great on my home 3D projector and in traditional stereo viewer’s with my phone attached. But in the Lume Pad, even with the _2x1 or the _half_2X1, my images look very ghosty and blurry. The sole reason for purchasing this tablet is to show my stereo work. So being able to view them clearly is a must. Any suggestions?

After looking to all my previous mpo shot by Fujifilm W3 (without further editing), I have noticed that most of them are not so good in Lume Pad, in spite of being great on my Sony 3D TV. By playing a bit, this is what I’ve found (that could be related to your comment): if I select ST I can see a nice picture but with strong popup effect, so strong that you have to move to find a sweet spot. This is likely due to the separation between lens of the original picture, much larger than the one used by H1 and Lumepad; in 4V this translates into the need of choosing the focus (so some of them could look out of focus by default) and the risk of artifacts and ghosts appearing to match so distant frames.

I have noted that viewing angle has a significant effect on 3D images viewed on the Lume Pad, especially if they have been converted. Try the 2D and Stereo settings to verify the clarity of the image itself vs. the 4D light field version. You may be able to adjust the 4D depth to get a better image final image. Question: how do 3D photos taken with the Lume Pad itself look? If the problem is there as well, you may have a bad unit and should talk to customer service. I have notes that my camera occasionally has problems determining the focal point for the 3D, but so far it’s tolerable and something I can compensate for.

I’ve been running into similar issues with my W3 photos looking bad on the Lume Pad as just MPOs, but they are much better from Stereo Photo Maker, although I’m still learning about that tool.

This could be because the Fuji 3d Cameras sometimes had not perfectly aligned Lenses/Sensors the slightest Error in Vertikal alignment can cause all sorts of Problems, including the Depth Map Estimation that’s needed to make a 4v Out of such an image. My Guess ist that the Calibration Data of the Leia Cameras in the Hydrogen and the Lume Pad Take Care of that because the Outcome of these Devices don’t need additional alignment. For the Fuji and other two Lens 3d Cameras or Rigs it is probably needed to do the alignment and Keystone Correction before Viewing it in the Lume Pad since These older Cameras don’t do this internally (at least Not that perfect since the Algorythms are ancient). But the Workflow in STPHM is pretty straight Forward and even big Collections should be pretty easy to align in Batch Mode.That Said, the minimal Distance for picture taking should always be in a certain Distance for every Camera based on the interocular Distance of the Camera Lenses, If the Distance is too short the Brain can’t handle the unnaturally big Parallax, this Problem diminishes slightly If You are watching it from farther away of the Display device, therefore it is probably less obvious in a big TV, because You are watching Not that close. The w1-w3 are no macro Cameras, at least not without the rare macro Attachment , the optimal Distance of these ist between 2.3 to 3.85m to The Objekt.